My spontaneous trip over the Balkans brought me to Bosnia, Montenegro and Albania.
While I have cycled over 25000 km in Europe I have always gone north, I have never been south of Croatia (until now).
It took 20 days, about 2000 km distance with 30000 m of elevation.
I lost ~7 kg (which is normal for me in summer with lots climbing and when I push myself)
I have done a lot of hiking, slept in the mountains under the stars more than once, swam in many rivers, alpine lakes, and sea.
Of course not everything was fun (as usual) and I had to battle the sun (probably the worst), ended on some shit roads with death-defying traffic, all the rest was unforgettable!
The trip was so good I could go again now and I would not be bored!
Day 1,18 .6
Start of the journey
Decided to take an alternate route and enter Bosnia in Dvor Na Uni. Because last time I came to Kostajnica.
I took some route Komoot suggested and I endedonn some super secluded road ( which later turned into gravel because the road was so devastated) which meant there was nobody on this road which partially led through the woods and it made an escape from the sun which was very pleasant.
Once I reached Dvor, I was waiting to throw myself in the river.
After some shopping for food, I made a mistake here and forgot to buy an internet package since I was not in the EU and more, all my money ( about 25 euros) which I had on the phone, disappeared very quickly. Gone in 60 seconds. Normally I would be pissed but I wasn't letting this ruin my holidays.
The all awaited swimming finally came and contrary to my thinking,the water wsgreat, super refreshing and with the minimum smell of the river.
There were even brzaci which added another thing on the playground.
I decided not to camp there as the city was small and it was clear people spend their evening on the river so I decided to cycle a bit more.
I was not tired but the day was getting on a bit and the night approaching, and as always with these types of adventures, you never know where you are going to end for the night.
After 10 km or so, while the night was quickly descending, I stopped at the side of a road, seeing a fisherman on the side of. River on some kind of grassy space.
All this looked private and probably would not stay there but since I had the opportunity to speak with lokals, this made all the difference.
In tje end, I ended up close to where there was a shelter ( a bench and a roof) and had a great night. Ond again talking to locals proved to be the great solution.
In the morning next daI even had a swim in the river which was mesmerizing in colors.
Still in Croatia, trying to find the roads I havent yet ridden to get out of the country
This part of the route from Petrinja somewhere, all the way to Dvor na Uni was super quiet with pretty much no cars, but this was because the road turned into gravel and went through the woods later on.
I would take this path again if needed, only gravel tires are required.
Dvor na Uni city, I couldnt wait to get in the water, and the water was very refreshing
19.6
Today cycling continued following the Una river and green alternating colors were staggering, much more than my mobile camera can show. I swimmed couple of times throughout the day and each time the water was better and more refreshing.
The city of Bosanska Krupa was such a beautiful small town. I left my bike and climbed on the local lld fortress with spectacular views of the city and surroundings.
Later I reached the city of Bihac but was disappointed and haven't seen much to be honest.
City centre looks poor and the rest I saw wasn't worth talking about. Maybe there was more but I simply haven't seen it.
Later I met another bike traveler from Croatia, Denis from Cakovec, where we continued to cycle the rest of the day. The scenery wasn't disappointing at all.
Planned to sleep by the river again but when I found a spot that was wet, I thought it was raining just before I came, so I only took a swim and washed my bike shorts and continued to cycle onwards.
Ended up sleeping next to the road (which was climbing over the hill), on some gravel path. Definitely cycled too much that day.
City of Bosanska Krupa
Breathtaking views from the top of old town in the middle of the city
Took a rest in hidden place next to the river (this place if full of them, I could sleep next to river easily on many places)
Water source incorporated in war monument (often seen in Bosnia)
In Bihać
Monument in Kulen Vakuf
Trying to sleep next to river Kulen Vakuf, it ended up being too wet so I moved on.
20.6
Descending into Drvar
Day started cloudy with some little rain overnight. My partner stayed behind and later left for Knin( because he had limited time) while I continued towards Mostar.
After descending into Drvar , I was really astounded at how bad the city looked. Even the centre alone. But the city looks big.
After some shopping for much needed food, I left Drvar and started climbing out from the valley Drvar lies in.
Not a small climb by any means. And the weather was turning to worse. It was inevitable rain would catch me and it did somewhere half the climb.
That was an opportunity for me to test my summer ultralight windbreaker which is actually quite waterproof at the same time. But breathability suffers because of that. I got quite wet in the end, the jacket held but quite a lot of rain has fallen with nowhere to hide. Luckily it's summer and its warm.
The rain stopped when I reached the top and descended into another valley.
On the other side the clouds looked horrendous and it was clear it will rain again today.
I continued to cycle towards Bosansko Grahovo, a small city close to Croatian border, where you can get into Knin easily.
My partner Denis later went this way.
Again, full shopping in B Grahovo because I wasn't sure whether I will reach the next big city today and the valley in front of me was really stuck in time, having only small settlements with most houses being abandoned and only a few where people actually lived.
This part was really heartening to cycle but beautiful as well , in its own way.
Later the road got me close to Dinata, the highest peak in Croatia, which I have never been to.
The weather was partially sunny the last few hours, being joyful to cycle and only after I passed Dinara, stormy clouds started to build up and looked like they were coming from the other side of Dinara.
The pictures speak for themselves. That moment felt real and felt right in the moment.
I felt the need for training and pushed my way away from these clouds. There was one lonely road with nothing aside and probably cycled 45 minutes until I reached the first houses, and that was only a few minutes before the hige clouds arrived and started to rain heavily.
I was lucky to have tailwind at that push and in the end took shelter in one of those abandoned houses so I was left completely dry. This was good because I didn't want to get soaking wet again the second time this day, despite being relatively warm.
In the evening I reached Livno and found a place for the night just outside of the city with a nice view for the evening.
Road up in the hills going towards Drvar, very quiet, some shepard dogs, but all friendly
View of the Drvar
Left Drvar , climbed over the hill (where the rain washed me) and descended in other valley
And this valley was almost completely deserted (only few houses inhabited here and there)
Dinara was clear at first, then at somepoint, huge clouds started rolling over (picture doesnt do the justice!)
So I was pushing this road (which had nothing what so ever for hiding alongside the road) to escape from the rain. I didnt want to get wet today again. Although it was warm, lots of rain still makes a cold environment.
Finally after almost an hour and tailwind I managed to get cover in one of the abandonded house, just few minutes before the rain started.
Later it cleared again.
21.7
Another big day
Heading from Livno I took a road reaching Tomislavgrad from above. There was a little bit of climbing after Livno with a nice view. Later the road turned boring and with a lot of traffic.
It was Sunday and I had to watch for food stores. Google maps showed several stores open in Tomislavgrad until 13h.
I arrived around noon and to my surprise all the stores were closed. They were not open at all on Sunday.
Funny thing, I saw opened food store open in a previous town an hour ago but I was too lazy to stop, thinking I will buy food in the next town. Postponing such an event always leads to trouble..
I met several bike travelers there all coming going in different directions and they were all surprised at the food store situation.
Of course there is always something open like gas stations and bakeries, which might seem enough, but if you are particular about the food ( like me) and like to buy some vegetables for dinner, good luck with gas stations.
Not to mention that prices of food there are ridiculous.
But that's what you get when you skip stores...
After buying some food, I decided to head over to Blidinje national park. Not much climbing from Tomislavgrad to get to Blidinje.
And how lovely it is there you have to see for yourself. There is one big lake surrounded by mountains and pine forests.
I avent swim in the lake ( not sure if it's any good) but after seeing the mountains I decided to stay there and do some hiking.
So I chose a route and climbed a gravel road about 3 km to arrive at the starting point of the hike.
I spend the rest of the evening relaxing in a super quiet environment, and beautiful nature. Being Sunday there were some cars around, but most of them left in the evening.
Hearing cows in some field close by assured me that there are no wild animals around ( I guess ).
22.7
A day of too much hiking
I have over-exuberated myself again.
I woke up at 6, slept pretty well, packed quickly and went on a hike. Weather was sunny and pretty good in the early morning.
The actual path was very beautiful, going through the woods at first, later on to some bushy area.
I arrived at mountain hut Vilimac early about 09:30. There was a lovely house keeper that had only just arrived and since it was Monday, there were no other hikers.
He gave me a piece of bread and I decided to continue hiking towards Cvrsno, the highest peak there.
At that point it didn't come to my mind how hot it's going to be that day, and I was at 2000 m.
In about 2 hours of hiking, I realized the sun has become unbearable. Also the path since I left Vilinac has become very cumbersome! Lots of rocks to hike around and lots of bushes to hike in between. So much that I would not want to go back this way. And I had to basically because this was the only way back to my bike.
At this point I decided not to continue towards Cvrsno because it was all in the sun and not a single cloud around.
I decided to go down ( looking at my maps) then I would use the road to kitchike back to my bike.
Little that I knew this hitchhiking is not going to work( people simply haven't stopped) . I thought I looked like a hiker afterall.
So a long walk back had to be done, and at the bottom of the road, I still had to climb back to my bike.
All in all about 30 km done that day and that was way too much, I should have never gone to Cvrsno, just do a simple half day hike.
Another thing happened later on and that was the nasty rain clouds starting to come together and they came from right about where I was going, Cvrsnica. There was a thunderstorm as well. If i stayed in the mountains that would not be pleasant.
Luckily as i descended and headed back to my bike all this cleared eventually and the day become pleasant again ( no sun no rain)
I regretted this later because I was way too tired once I reached my bike, and I still had to cycle to the next town, where the closest food store was, because I was out of food. Lucky cycling back was mostly descending although a long way down! And a very poor asphalt.
Finally in Jerebica I managed to buy the food I wanted.
Unluckily the only warmshowers host left me empty, it would really suit me to recharge all my stuff.
And ofcourse meeting locals always raises my morale.
I couldn't decide where to go next.
Initial plan was towards Mostar, but close by was also the Prenj mountain range ( I saw them first from today's hiking, when I was at the top) and they looked magnificent.
After lots of discussion with myself, and mostly the fact that I simply hiked too much today, I was too tired to hike another day.
So I started descending towards Mostae and immediately realized this road is WAY too crowded, not just with cars but also trucks.
And it was down right dangerous.
And late and I was super tired and had no idea where to sleep.
Luckily there was an old road, close to the main road I spotted, managed to lift my not so light hike over the metal road fence, and 109 m below I had a nice place for myself, mostly guaranteed nobody would come here. The place was clean and dry ( no moisture which is always welcome).
Unfortunately I didn't go swimming today, although I was near the Neretva river, but I couldn't access it, and it didn't look so clean, but that wouldn't stop me from washing myself.
Very long day today.
Once you climb from the town of Tomislavgrad into Blidinje you are greeted by this view
There is a Blidinje lake, which I had intention to swim if possible but in the end road and unplanned plans to today took me away
This photo is cleary not right :) but I saved it because it shows the beauty of these mountain houses
Today I decided to leave my bike somewhere in the woods and embark on the hike.
So I pedaled for about 4 km on gravel road upwards to arrive at starting point of the hike
Thsi was great because I was in the woods, it was super pieceful and only a few hikers passing back and forth
In the morning I went towards mountain hut Vilinac on a very nice trail through the woods. It was Monday so the trail was almost empty of people
This could be a bivouac (of sort) I read it exist on this trail (or just an old house)
Crossroad
Once you arrive close to top, the view are magnificent
Towards Hajdučka Vrata
Towards Prenj
Mountain hut Vilinac, in the background there is Pločno (Čvrsnica), which is the highest peak here
After vilinac, I decided to hike towards Pločno. It was stil learly in the mornign so the sun was not so hot.
But the trail become very cumbersome here (constant scrambling through the bush and rocks). Then I realized the sun has hit so hard that I simply cannot walk any more. I had to find a shade. Also I realized I will have to go back this same path (which I didnt like at all). Gave up on visiting Pločno (it was way too hot!). Decision was to go down back to the raod and go back from there.
Funny enough, after an hour the clouds gathered, and slowly turned into serios storm. Once I descended down to the raod, the rain began and it was nasty in the mountians (where I was 2 hours ago). I would probably stay at the military hut on Pločno and waited it to pass if I was in the mountains.
Still all this was way to much, it took like 6 hours in one direction, and it was not fun in the sun.
Finally reaching the road I went back (hitchiking didnt work unfortunately as I was hoping otherwise because I didnt want to walk the road back).
Took me the whole day to came back where I started (12 hours at least). I should have just go to Vilinac and back + visit Hajdučka vrata.
The same day I repacked my stuff (after reaching my bike) and descended down to the town of Jablanica for tonight shopping (I ate all the food I had in the mountains).
Long day (too much hiking) and I still had to find a place to sleep.
Also, ended up on one of the worst fucking road with huge traffic, trucks and all (Jablanica to Mostar) but there was no other raod here. My mistake, If I knew this road was so bad, I would planned not to descend To Jablanica but to go left in Blidinje and descend down to Mostar from Drežnica somehow.
The reason I went to Jablanica is because I was out of food that day and there was no store up in Blidinje national park. I should have planned my stay in Blidinje better , but all this was planned once I arrived in Blidinje (I didnt know I would do any hiking here).
23.7
The worst fucking road and burn down in flames ( just like jesse james)
Yes, today's day has 2 titles.
One was mentioned yesterday when I started descending this busy road from Jerebica to Mostar.
Dont ever take this fuckong raod.
I was descending and it still took over 2 hours to get to Mostar.
And no alternative road.
And the whole road is littered with monuments, not from war, but from traffic accidents.
I fucking hste this when people leabe monuments for this reasons on the sodf of the road.
I couldn't wait to get to Mostsr.
I wish I took an alternative route yesterday and go towards Konjic instead of down.
About Mostar, I can only say how beautiful this town is!
All the other towns I saw looked poor and not something I could ever imagine living, but Mostar was different.
A town very worth visiting! Come and stay for a few days, you can walk the town , hikE the nearby hills and swim in Neretva which passes through the town.
After Mostar I followed the 'famous' Ciro trail, heading towards Dubrovnik.
At first, the route is nothing special and on the exit of Mostar it gets on some quiet road still close to Neretva, so swimming is still possible. It continues as such to the town of Capljina, the last resort for shopping because there are no shops afterwards.
Little bit after Capljina, the 'famous' off-road part begins and the route climbs into hills. Unfortunately the gravel is loose and not fun to ride most of the way. You also encounter some tunnels along the way.
Of course all this can be avoided if you just take paved roads around.
I only recommend this gravel section if you have mountain bike tires and minimum weight.
I ended up sleeping on some table along the way.
Bosnian mosque
On the descend from Blidinje towards Jablanica, some big walls here
Long day, already too late, on this stupid road, with apparently no visible places to hide, I was lucky to find some closed side road next to Neretva river where I could sleep peacefully.
Water was not accessible and looked quite dirty here.
In the morning I continue to descend towards Mostar on this death road (lithered with monuments alongside the road). There is no other word for it. Lots of trucks speeding by, and the worst thing is there is no other road to escape, so if you end up here with a bike (like me) you have to cycle it. And the road is long and takes long time to descend towards Mostar. If you were to go other way and cycle up, it would take ages.
The canyon is nice though
Rolling into Mostar which is really beautiful city!
Green river of Neretva passing right through the town. And tons ofpšlaces for swimming.
What do you do after work here? I guess you go to the beach (river)
Old town center is gorgeous!
Famous old bridge from where people jump into the water.
I left Mostar and started Ciro trail, which in begining is just normal road, but quite nevertheless.
Some underpass where I hid myself from the sun
Town of Čapljina, last place to buy groceries on Ciro trail.
Tunels on Ciro are rough, unlighted and have a bad smell (bat poo?).
The gravel is rough as well, you NEED mountain bike tires to enjoy. I had to push somewhat because my narrow 40mm tires and personally I hate loose gravel, which there is a lot here
After lots of fighting wiht loose gravel (not my fun), I stayed here for the night, found some bench
Today's food
It was a nice quiet place for sleep. I was hoping for some travellers here but it didnt happen.
Sunset
24.7 Rest of the Ciro trail and descent to Croatian coast
Today I continued Chiro after a super hot night. I barely managed to sleep, even without a sleeping bag how hot it was.
Regarding the gravel part of the Ciro, to be honest, I just waited to get back on the road because of horrible loose gravel.
Once the trail turned paved, it was actually very enjoyable and super quiet.
Last part of the trail is a narrow and quiet road with a view of the valley. Luckily the clouds gathered in the middle of the day and made the rest of the afternoon very enjoyable. Otherwise we would be baking in 40 degrees sun.
The only thing missing is water on the last stretch so it's important to have enough.
I met young Spanish couple looking for water on the trail
The last part of Ciro trail is very deserted, with almost nothing around until the border.
All in all Ciro trail for me was an average experience, nothing to write home about, but also a quiet piece of road, if this is what you are looking at.
I descended on the Croatian coast, in Soline below Dubrovnik ( which later turned out to be a mistake because of the traffic) but since it was at the sea now,I used this opportunity to swim in the sea, which was very refreshing.
I chose some ranbom beach for the night, in this case named Bels, which required me to hide the bike in the woods and descend on foot to the seaside because this area is a high cliff.
Riding the Ciro trail. Second part (towards Dubrovnik) is quite nice, it rides on some quiet road.
Once or twice a day doing yoga. I have to strecth my quads or my knees are fucked.
Yugoslavian war reminders.
Super hot today, luckily second part of the day the couds start rolling with some light rain and it saved the day.
I saw several turtles on this trip :)
Clouds save the day.
Descending into Soline. I debated for long should I visit coastline. I know its super busy in summer but I forgot actuially how muzh. I wanted to do some swimming in the sea. Also I havent been on the part of the coast yet. All this made me wanted to come down to the coast in the end.
Some good soem bad. I did have some fun time son the coastline, but also the traffic is horrible. I dont think I will even again go to coastline in summer.
Funny enough, this reminded me of my first touring moments long time ago (when I started trouing). All I did was cycle Croatian coastline in the summer. This was fine for me back then and the traffic didnt bother me then (so much) but today I cast stand it any more. there is no reason to go to seaside in the middle of the summer, its better to stay in the mountains.
Super refreshing sea
Sleepingon the caost, found some beach on Google called Bjeline after Cavtat.
It was supposed to be some wild coast, and while it turned to be slighly off beaten path, and required a harder descend to coast (I had to leave my bike in the woods and descend on foot), the coast was still ruined by all (I guess illegal) concreate additions like huts and barbeque stuff.
Still the sea was great and it was nice to spend the night there and swim in the sea.
25.6 Kotor bay and Warmshoeers host in Montrengro.
Cycling around the bay takes some time, not so much because of tje distance but more because of the crawdiness. today's distance was less , this enabled me to rest for a while.
I swam 2 times in the bay and the water was good.
I found a host after the bay, an agricultural farm which requires you to spend a few hours a day working, in exchange for stay and food. I had a very pleasant experience, and also met other fellow travelers.
The food they offer for dinner and breakfast is amazing!
Kotor bay in all its glory?
The streets are nice
Some fancy part
Took me long time to cycle around the bay, but it was worth it. Full of tourists (as its middle of the summer) but it makes for an occasion. The sea was nice to swim averall
26.6 Warmshoers host and a little work day
Day started early, waking up at 6 to avoid the heat of the day.
I was given a job to clear and reposition a big pile of logs.
After quite a workout this turned out to be, they made a magnificent lunch, consisting of all kinds of food sources, mainly coming from tje big garden they have with all the fruits and vegetables.
I decided to only stay a single day because I am on a short trip and want to move forwards.
If I was on a long journey and somewhere in the other part of Europe, a longer stay at such a farm would suit me perfectly.
I said goodbye with my hosts and other travelers and continued cycling in major heat, like tje rest of the days.
Unfortunately, the traffic was awful, I almost forgot what it means to name the coast in the middle of tje summer.
I could wait more to move away from the coast and go to the mountain.
After the town of Bar, in the next small town I took the climb over the hills and tje traffic immediately died down, making my cycling more enjoyable.
I would do it sooner but any climb before that would require even more climbing, and even this was a big climb.
Once over the top, I could see the first glimpse of tje Albanian alps above the Skoder lake.
I went to sleep just before the border with Albania on local hills, only to be woken up around midnight with wolf howling.
At first I ignored this because it was only one but after a few minutes I could hear tje whole pack howling, after which I decided to cycle down to the lake and sleep next to the main road.
Was it necessary? I dont know but this was my decision at the time :)
The biggest blackberries I have ever seen and eaten. I forgot to ask if they were suplemented.
Warmshowers host I stayed in Montenegro with was an agricultural farm, which offered a stay and free food in exchange for few hours of work in the garden a day.
Garden was full of all kind of fruits, berries, tomates, paprika.. and all this as consumed everyday on the table. The food was simply fantastic!
For me personally this seemed fantastic and there were other travelers here, stying for much longer. I was on a short trip and stayed only for a day, but if I was on longer trip , this would be agreat place to rest even for a week.
27.7 The big climb
Today after not so good a sleep from last night, it was time to climb towards Thethi.
In the big sun, and loaded with food, it ended up as quite a big climb.
Luckily i had all tje food and drinks i needed.
Ended up at the top of the pass about 17:00 and had a good night sleep.
I stayed at the top of the pass, not descending towards Thethi valley, because i dont want to climb back up again.
After leaving my warmshowers host, I coulnt wait to escape the busy coast (car after car) and climb over the mountains inline.
And there I got the view of Shkodra Lake and Albanian alps ( in the background)
From some images this Shkodra Lake looks almost like south east Asia!
View from local hills (navigation took me). that night I was woken up by wolves howling at night. Sinc eI was in the midld eof fucking knowhere I decided I would not have a good night sleep here and packed all my stuff (in the middle of the night) and cycled down on the main road next to the lake.
Not the best nights sleep, but it is what it is.
I bought this is one Albanian store (since I couldnt find peanut butter). Its some kind of sesame paste with sugar. Its not bad, at least has tons of calories.
28.7 big hike
After walking up i realized i dont want to hike from ( it would be too far) and its better to descend down with a bike, even if i had to climb back up.
It fescend quite a bit down to the valley.
And the valley has a bit of Nepal taste, with all its lodges and houses around.
I locked my bike at the bottom, packed my backpack as long as it fits ( i need a bigger light backpack) and started hiking.
After half an hour I met a group of Kiwis ( New Zealanders) and we quickly bonded and continued hiking upwards.
The first pass came quickly, plus we were in the shade, and then we descended into Valbona valley.
All this took about 4 easy hours with rest.
We parted ways afterwards and the Kiwis left towards Valbona, while I started hiking upwards towards Maja Jezerce peak.
I forgot to ask them if they can give me water since they downwards and will have water while i go upwards and dont know if there will be water.
And the sun started to heat up..
I quickly realized i dont want to go across this peak because as it currently stands, i need at least 2 more liters of water which i dont have.
So I continued upwards battling the sun and following other path which avoided this peak.
This path should take me towards some spring.
After reaching the pass I realized that the path towards spring actually descends down a lot, and if I took this route to the shelter in another valley, I would walk even more!
Then I revisited the route over the Jezerce peak and it turns out this is still the most direct route, despite all the climbing.
Still, I only had half a liter of water currently( without knowing when I will get water next) and I could drink a liter right now!
I still decided to go over the peak and after maybe half an hour I stumbled over the first patch of snow!
I immediately topped out my 2 liter bottle I was carring and my enthusiasm went through the roof!
I haven't seen any snow so far ( despite being at 2000m) and I thought there was no snow here ( maybe because of the heat)
As I continued forward I kept stumbling over more and more snow patches and I drank water like I was at home.
I can't even imagine how I would be without any water because that day I probably drank 3 liters of water just from the snow!
I arrived at the top at 15:30 approximately and later enjoyed the descent.
Views were already great from the star so being at tje top didn't make it more spectacular.
After descending to one of the lakes, I realized there are tons of raspberries around.
So much so that I started picking them and I haven't stopped for a good hour which had me pick about 2/3 of a kilo!
I ended up eating them with a spoon after dinner. And there were still left.
I also slept by the lake because it was breathtakingly beautiful!!
Despite Having only a sleeping bag with me , the night was still ok temperature wise. I ended up sleeping most of the night.
Such a great day!
On the top of the pass, took me half a day (or more) to get there. It was like 50 km distance and 1600 m of elevation if my memory is correct.
I also had lots of food with me (bought food for 2 days) although I later saw there was some small store in the valley. I think Google didnt show this, maybe I would buy some stuff there.
The views are nothing but breathtaking.
In the morning I decended into the valley and stared a hike.
Some of these lodges remind me of the Nepal
On the first pass. Sun is already super hot.
Look into the Valbona valley
Those are Kiwis I met on the way. They went into Valbona valley
Here we separated ways and I went towards Maja Jezerce (the highest peak there)
Close to summit of Maja Jezerce
Views from the top!
Some sweets are bought in Albanian store. The taste felt familiar but I could remember what this was. It was super caloric (which is good for the mountains)
Hiding from the sun just below the top
More views!
Doing down towards the lakes
One lake was dry but the rest had water.
After I spotted raspberries around the lakes and I started picking them, I just couldnt stop. By the end of the day I probably had more than half a kilo which I ate with a spoon after dinner.
This saved me because I was little short of food these 2 days in the mountains. Next day I also picked probably half a kilo of them.
29.7 second day hike
After yesterday's strenuous hike today thf plan was to circle around the other valley and get back to the Teethi.
The morning started with me eating more berries around the lake ( because they were everywhere!)
Last day I was worried that i will have no enough food to sleep higher ( without descending to the valley to buy more) But I never imagined berries would be my main source of food,:)
And super delicious they were!
Hiking today was nice, lots of people around ( as soon as you desvent down to valley pases).
It was really nice that there was such peace and quiet around the lakes the previous night!
I only met 2 individuals vamping by the lakes the same as me.
I got back to Teethi in the afternoon and immediately took a jacuzzi swim in tje first stream.
Oh boy it was good!!!
I washed all the sweat and dust off of me in the last 2 days.
After packing my precious bike, I took another wash in the super cold main river, which prepared my body for thf upcoming climb.
Yes, the day was not over for me unfortunately, i had to climb out of tje valley, and descend down on the other side to get to tje store.
I didn't even know what in front of me ( despite ridden all this)
I thought i would go through all this rather quickly but tje day has gone and hd night came somewhere halfway on tje descent.
The climb was 2.5 hours and I felt good ( the swimming in cold water probably saved me) but I was still very tired at the top.
Then tje descent came, and WHAT a descent it was!
I think it took me about 1.5 hours to blast down. I dont remember the last time I had such a powerful and long descent!
I manage to get to the store and buy food ( athough tjevstore suckef and it was not small)
The only store in Albania i have been buying unfortunately lacked a lot of goods ( bread, peanut butter etc)
I slept behind the big abandoned building I saw when I was cycling here.
The sleeping spot was actually quite ok.
And there was a fire on a local hill that night, with no apparent interest in the services actually trying to extinguish it.
So there was also a lot of smoke in the air close by. I hope I haven't bred too much.
Ended up sleeping way too late, around midnight.
Waking up next morning where I slept by the lake. I didnt even have a sleeping mat that day because my backpack was full. Not the greatest idea, but I found some comfy grass and it was fine.
More raspberries. How much do you want?
Going down back to the valley I started from, this time taking another way around merging into the path coming from Grebaje Valley.
Old bunkers
The valley of Theth (where I started from)
On the top of climb out of the Theth valley (took me 2.5 hours in the end). Funny enough, it felt to me like half of that time maybe. That 2x swimming I have done in the valley really refreshed my body for this climb!
After that one of the most extreme descends for me have taken place, from the top of pass to the Shkodra lake (I believe I was descending for more than an hour!)
30.7 hard day
After last night of super exhaustion, late sleep, Today I also had a headwind heading to Niksic.
And there was climbing, a lot coming, all tje way to Durmitor.
I passed Podgorica, saw the famous bridge and the very nice green river, similar to one in Mostar.
In the end I didn't even reach Niksic, due to exhaustion, and after shopping for dinner in a small town, ended up sleeping on a nice quiet viewpoint next to a quiet road.
Btw, I saw ( too late) that navigation did not take me on uper road next to Ostrog Monastery!
Little bit bummed as I only realized later I should have taken tje upper right road.
Komot led me in the middle of the valley.
Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ, Podgorica
Podgorica is the capital of Montenegro. A rather small city. It had a nice green river Morača passing through the city.
After Podgoprica I headed to wards Nikšić.
WW2 military Sancturay in Danilovgrad
Fence is made in a form of weapons (really serene)
Camping next to the road on quite location, nice views, perfect.
I was planning to cross through Nikšič today, but there was way to much climbing and I ended still far from the town actually. Luckily I passed through some small settlements and managed to buy some food (fresh fat cheese) which I put on cooked pasta with olice oil!
Evening views
Still having this Halve pasta from Albania. Not the biggest fan of it must be said.
Morning
Tsar's bridge (Carev most) near Nikšić, Montenegro
Church in Nikšić
31.7 another hard day of climbing
I guess i didn't get full night sleep, despite finding vamping spot last night before dark.
The Route continued climbing to Niksic.
After some food shopping, i continued towards nect town which was a big fucking hill.
The road didn't stop climbing and when it finally reached its peak, it only revealed that the top was actually a high plane, and very nice actually but I was so bloody tired.
I even took a nap at the top.
After descending to Savnik and another food shopping, it became clear I will not reap Zabljak tonight.
But this was ok. It's easier for me to eat today and tomorrow, buy all the food for 2 days in Durmitor and enter the park immediately.
Plateau to which I have climbed after leaving Nikšić. Lots of climbing today as well! And super hot sun.
1.8
Empty powerbank
I didn't quite reach Zabljak last night and slept on the side of the road.
The night was very cold, the coldest so far on my trip.
Still managed to get a full night's sleep ( I am carrying tiredness over multiple days because every day involves tons of climbing)
First thing I realized as I woke up was that my other powerbank was empty and only charged my phone 50%. It was supposed to have another 2 days of mobile charge, but I guess I messed up my math, and i didnt even check the previous day. Maybe I would ask someone to
charge me with a power bank while I sleep close by.
So I needed a new plan. I went to Zabljak and found a construction site where I asked to leave the power bank charged.
So I spent the morning resting in the park while my phone charged.
And then started hiking around 14:00 after hiding my bike in the woods.
And Durmitor is gorgeous!
Today I hiked about 10 km, visited one peak on the way and reached a water source before resting and eating in the evening sun.
Unlike in Prokletije, this time I took a sleeping mat and tons of food, so I have more than enough for 2 days.
Durmitor views on first day hike
Climbed the peak named Terzin bogaz which was on the path where I was heading. Durmitor was pretty quiet with visitors after you climb up a bit from the lower touristy locations.
On the pass Trojni Prevoj (2245 m, Tripple Pass) in the evening. It was gorgeous here.
Descended on the orther side, where there was water and I decided to sleep for the night under billion stars.
Today's dinner. Didnt carry a cooker so I bought some ready meal.
Evening sunshine and quietness (although I did met few hikers going back home)
2.8 Wonderful day in the mountains
After last night of slightly cold sleep , I woke up to a wonderful morning in the Durmitor.
I continued towards Bobotov Kuk, the peak which turned out to be a joy of beauty!
On the way I met a couple from England and continued to hike up the peak.
Funny thing but tje Durmitor is full of stray dogs, which live up there ( at least when it's warm)
There were 2 dogs yesterday, whom which i thought belonged to someone.
Today I saw more dogs, one of which walked straight to tje top of Bobotov Kuk following other hikers!
And he looked so relaxed. Mind you, the hike to the top is not easy and involves some scramble.
I also saw one dog barking at tje mountain goats :)
I think they are trying to protect hilers ( which are not under attack but they act protective when tje mountain goat comes close)
After Bobatov Kuk, I descended down to my bike, went to Zabljak to buy food and went into tje direction of Tara canyon, which was a wonderful narrow road leading through green forest and meadows!
Ended up sleeping once I climbed above the forest and the beautiful view over the Durmitor opened.
My accomodations. This time I did carry a sleeping mat :)
Morning views of Bobotov Kuk
Interesting formations
Škrčko Jezero
English pair I met today
Views from the top of Bobotov Kuk.
It was suprizing to see one stray day hike to the top of Bobotov Kuk just following some hikers. and the ascent is no the easiest at all.
In fact, Durmitor was full of stray dogs (better than volves:) and in 2 days I spent there, I saw 5-10 of them, many were above 2000 meters. They seemed happy. There is water avalable and I guess hikers give them food so they stay at this altitudes in the warmer period of year.
Going back down from Bobotov Kuk taking alternative route back to town of Zabljak
Crno Jezero, close to town of Žabljak, very trouisty but still nice. The water was refreshing so took a swim to wash few days of dirt of of me.
The same day I came down from hiking Durmitor, I repacked my stuff on the bike, done quick shopping for food, left wonderful small town of Žabljak and headed into Tara national park on very nice secluded small road (they were some cars around but they dissapeared as the day went on)
And boy this road and the whole scenery was magnificent, all dark and deep green colors of everyhing around (from low grass to trees).
There was quite a climb to make, but once I reached out of the woods, I could see Durmitor mountains once again. It was quite ht ened of the day. The weather was still good, although there was some rain on the forecast.
The sun was about hte set soon but then I found some gravel road close by leadin gon some open field, surrounded by old wood built small houses (not in use any more). I decided to stay here, not sure what is going to be with rain next day.
My problem was I did not have ten tpegs (I forgot them at home but only found this when I came back). I though I maybe los them on the begining of the trip. I didnt need them most of the time but this night I definitely would need them because as the night went on, the wind picked up quite a bit and my humble tent cant withstand much wind, especially wihtout any tent pegs!
I got woke up easly by wind and some rain (dont have the picture but it all looked like big storm is going to hit). My tent was hopeless and I had to move my tent next to one of those old abandoned houses, otherwise I risk my tent being ripped apart by wind. I mannged to fall asleep once again after this and woke around 8'o clock with quite clear skies, which was a relevation.
So the day started quite good. Funny enough I was close to the top (maybe 10 more minute so fclimbing, then the descent starts). And after 5 minutes of descent there was a shelter (and quite a fancy one)!
I completely forgot to look into Komoot for shelters, because its the peak of the summer and most times I just sleep outside without the need for shelters.
I havent looked if the shelter was opened on my descent (it was one of those fancy wood structure shelters with glass surfaces, it looked really nice!!) because I was slight dissapointed in myself not searhing for shelter the previous day. It would save me little bit of sleep and worry for my pegless tent.
3.8 Canyon Tara & Piva
I woke up around 5 with rain , wind and bad looking skies.
I had to move my tent next to one of those old barracks because of the wind and me not having tent pegs ( long story)
I Fell asleep one more time and woke around 7:00 with clear skies and sun. What a delight!
After 5 minutes of climbing I arrived at the top with a wonderful view of the canyon Tara!
Then after descending 5 minutes I arrived at the shelter ( I am an idiot for not checking yesterday for shelters!)
This shelter looked awesome and it would fit perfectly!
Anyways.. continued to cycle this quiet road through green Tara national park. This is indescribably beautiful!!!
The road descends into the canyon then climbs up on the other side and the views all round are magnificent 11/10
The quiet road then enters into Piva national park, still beautiful but not so greenish as Tara.
This quietness continued all the way to descending towards Bosnian border.
Then the shit road began ( half road is broken asphalt, half broken gravel) and quite a lot of traffic. I couldn't wait to get to Foca.
I slept on a construction site I found on the side of the road because I saw electricity plugs and could charge my power bank.
Contining cycling the road around Tara canyon. Road is unbelivable!
Green, green and more green!
Some settlements on this plateau
Raod swings back towards Durmitor before descending very steep into the canyon
On the bottom of the canyon Sušica. Quite a climbing to get back up
Tara canyon viewpoint. And just look at the settlements on the other side!
Keeps reminding me there are bears and wolves here, I see that :)
Interesting flowers, Google search says Woolly thistle
More views on super quiet road!
4.8 early wake up because i went to sleep early
Woke up at 5 and started climbing.
There was a lot of climbin today.
The roads were busy at first but later became better as I approached Bjelasnica.
After climbing to Babin Do ( the town below Bjelasnica) the route took me over wonderful mountain roads on Bjelasnica.
I only wish there were less cars, but it was Sunday after all. I cycled just a bit on top and they found a place for a tent.
Bjelašnica, these buildings look nice, I really like them , give it mountain atmosphere
I took a gravel road across Bjelašnica (about 25 km and quite rough at parts but well worth it), just make sure you dont end up there on thge weekend, because of too much cars and buggies!
View of the top, I havent been there, maybe next time!
I tried to film when there is no traffic, but since I was there first day on sunday afternoon, there was more trafic than I could stand. Luckily, the evening came fast and people cleared leaving just the empty mountain and animals (cows, horses...)
I found a place to sleep, at first I thought it was hidden enough. I guess cars coming from left could se eme, but in th evening there was nobody there any more.
Except there were some horses and cows at the watering hole on the opposite side of the road.
After the shepherd took away the cows, he left the horses, which right at the time I decided to go into the tent, all come from the other side of the hill (150 meters for sure) and they pretty much gathered around my tent.
It was funny and bit annoying because what am I supposed to do now with more than 10 horses.
Luckily after I ignored them and went to sleep they all dissapeared and went away. But it was funny how fast they actually came to me, from the opposite side if the hill. And they werent running, they just silently walked to my side.
This reminded me of last year bike tour when I was in Germany in soem countryside wild camping next to some big land, in whose garden there were 3 horses who slowly keept creeping towards me in the evening and after about half and hour got close to the fence, whene my tent was located on the opposite side and where I was trying to wild camp :)
But those horses were super slow, like turles, and still didnt come very close to me but stayed at about 15 meters from me, trying to get attention :)
5.8 Bjelašnice continue
I slept well and contimuted across Bjelasnica towards Konjic.
The road was very rough at moments ( mountain bike would be the best) but it was worth going to this road over Bjelasnica only for yesterday's part!
There was a lot of beauty up there.
Took me the whole morning to cross Bjelasnica and descend towards Konjic. And it was a pretty good descent.
After shopping for some food, and one swimming in the super refreshing river of Neretva!!
I looked at the map and decided to hike today to the mountain hut Jezerce, which was open like a bivouac.
Unfortunately nobody was there so I had no company in the evening, except for my mobile phone.
The evening outside the hut was very beautiful.
Morning on the Bjelašnica, I slept well and since it was Monday it was quiet around
The gravel road continued for ~25km and the environment is lovely, but you do need mountain bike tires
View towards Prenj. On the end on gravel road there was quite a big descend on paved roads towards city of Konjić
6.8 Empty Prenj
To my disappointment when I woke up today, it was slightly cloudy and after some thinking, I decided to come back down.
I wasn't sure about the weather, plus there is nobody in the mountains so I didn't feel like wandering alone in the quirky weather.
I must say I didn't expect Prenj to be so empty, considering how crowded Durmitor was...
Up to next time, the Prenj mountains!
I plotted a route towards Jajce and did a lot of climbing today.
On a side note, the road from Konjic to Jablanica was just as bad as the road from Jablanica to Mostar! Traffic plus it also has some tunnels.
Both of these roads are to be avoided!
Second note, i am out of cooking gas and i can't seem to find gas with screw on here.
Mountain Cabin Jezerce whci his open for public. I found this on te map and decided to go there and sleep. I cycled up as far as I could and left the bike in the woods as usual. After 3 (or so) hours of hiking I arrived at the hut in the evening.
Unfortunatelly there was nobody there and I was surprised how Prenj can be so empty (yes, it was over week the week but on Durmitor this didnt make a difference)
There is a water source near by the hut (although it looks fishy)
Cold meal again, but this Đuveč is actually quite good. I like Đuveč in Bosnia!
Evening views
In the morning I was surprised how cloudy it was. I didnt have internet connection up there, but I rememebr looking the day before and it was supposed to be sunny for days.
It wasnt looking rainy but also didnt looked like the weather I would want to hike in (unless I am in the known mountians like Slovenia where I go often).
I wanted to go to Zelena Glava (highest peak) which is not far but the weather and nobody around made me loose will and simply decide to hike back down from where I came yesterday. So the Prenj was little bit of dissapoitment for me (until next time).
7.8 Towards Jajce
I slept by the side of the road next to some abundant house. It came just at the right moment.
Road towards Jajce was pretty busy.
In Jajce I finally gave up on searching for gas canisters because it was clear now that they only need those plain gas canisters and nothing else.
I cannot believe I can buy screw gas canisters in Bosnia!!
After Jajce road became either heavy gravel in the middle of nowhere or busy main road towards Banja Luka.
So I took a bit of both since I get pretty angry when Komoot takes me on gravel roads which last for 10 of kms or who knows how long!
Had a swim in the Vrbas river just before tje evening, which came up nicely.
Then I had to push the bike again over the hill because the main road goes towards Banja Luka.
Ended up in a nice shelter for the night.
Bridge Stara Ćuprija in the town of Konjic.
Waterfall in Jajce
Jajce was little bit of dissapointment as well. I expected much more from reading about visiting Jajce beforehand.
After Jajce Komoot took me on the wild ride above some hills (because I chose the route back home towards Prijedor ). This was not the best solution, as it turned afterwards fro 2 reasons.
First, the road started climbing so steep, I only could push for along time. Once I was at the top, it looked ok for a bit but nasty surprise came afterwards becuase the road turned bad gravel and this was continuing for very long in the worst of sun. In fact I couldnt see on Kommot what is gravel and what paved because even Komoot doesnt really know that correctly.
I got tired of this gravel and tried to come down on some road, ended up on some very busy state road, all until reaching some small town Krupa na Vrbasu.
there I dio evenignhsopping, unexpected (but good) swim in Krupa, and then following Komoot started pushing my bike over the hill on super steep gravel road. I had to go this way because continuing straight, road would lead me to Banja Luka and I was not going there.
It felt like I was connecting back to the gravel road I actually escaped today from. And I was but not exaclty on the same point.
Any way this evening soon I found this little wooden shelter which made my evening so it all ended lovely.
In the morning I met some local Bosnians driving this road (which was unexpected to me because this road was very steep at one point).
Second, the city of Prijedor and surroundings (which came later the second day) were ugly to me. Not the part of bosnia I would visit ever again.
I had some plans before reaching Jajce maybe redirecting my end days towards river Una again (even if I cycle where I have already been few weeks before) but at this point I was just combing back home (when I dont care a lot where I go and just want to come back home). this would add a day or two to my trip which again I didnt feel like doing.
Wooden shelter I found at the end of the day after pushing my bike on steel gravel road. It wa snice to sleep here. In the moring somelocal pased by , we spoke alittle, he asked me wasnt I affraid of wildlife. I asked if there were wolves or bears, he mentioned few animals (coyotes etc..) and maybe a bear which sometimes passes by but doesnt bother anyone. I just shrugged my shoulders :) And I do carry a bear spray.
8.8 heading homeAbout 200 km separates me from home and now I am pretty much only thinking about getting home.
Today I continued on that hill route which was very quiet, passed through Prijedor , which looked awful, and Kostajnica, where I took a swim in Una, but tje water was warm so not much refreshing.
When I was in Dvor, at the start of my journey, the water there was much more refreshing.
Still 70 till home!
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