Welcome to Kyrgyzstan!
Country number X on this journey (sorry, I lost count :)
My planned route through Kyrgyzstan
Going from Kashgar into Kyrgyzstan over Torugart pass
Chinese truckers going to Kyrgyzstan gave me water one evening as this section (from Kashgar to Kyrgyzstan) has almost no running water in nature.
5 liters of water later I am happy and decided to camp behind some containers on the big parking lot.
As this last section of road towards Torugart road is a highway (there is no other road) it is often difficult or impossible too leave the road for camping.
But they let you cycle as there is no other road.
There is no much traffic on this road so it actually nice place to cycle (despite being on the highway)
Cooking myself a usual dinner for me (pasta with some vegetables and olive oil, extra virgin olive oil :)
Next morning I still have to cycle good 80 km to the border and the road keeps climbing steadily
And the road gets more and more interesting the closer you get to Kyrgyzstan.
Mountains gets bigger and more spectacular.
Just what I needed after boring Xining province in China
Me acting like a monkey in the middle of the highway.
Luckily traffic is very little on this road and this pass is much better than Irkeshtam pass (as I discovered later)
More of these tanks (built from rocks and often a wooden pole representing a turret)
Not sure what it the actual meaning behind this.
Last few km from Chinese border to the Torugart pass road deteriorates rapidly (there are actually some construction work going on ) and you have to tackle a steep climb towards the actual pass navigation gravel while lots of trucks overtake you.
First I didn’t know if I will cross the border today as Google told me border is actually opened from 8 -17 and I arrived at the border at about 19:00
But as I saw the border is actually opened I continued despite being late already (definitely don’t want to stay overnight close to border area)
Chinese border as easy to cross, just one big building and being a cyclist I was spared most of bag search as the kind young Chinese officers only slight opened some of my bags and quickly let me go.
Then it was time to tackle the steep climb towards the pass.
As I was tired as hell already it took me quite some time (felt like 45 min ) to finally climb on the pass (where is another Chinese border building checkpoint) but you go through this quickly and then descend starts towards Kyrgyzstan border.
Kyrgyzstan border crossing was quick (although slightly confusion where to go) but much more relaxed than Chinese border control.
Border guards were extremely welcoming, asking me is this my first time in Kyrgyzstan which I said yes!
They didn’t checked any of my bags and when I asked on officer for water (which I was now lacking) he quickly went around gather many water bottles and even gave me some fruit (apples and apricots) they had laying around.
That was now finally both border done , I was in magical looking Kyrgyzstan, the night was fast approaching, it was super cold (after warm Chinese side) and it was time to find shelter.
All this area around the Chatyr-Köl lake is often windy (as it was now) and there is no way I would sleep outside (even in tent).
I dint even realize how cold it was because I was till under all border crossing shenanigans.
All I wanted now was some abandoned house for sleep.
And building I found, just at right moment, although this area around the lake does not have much, its pretty much all opened space.
It was some kind of old building probably used to store animals at some point (as the floor was pooped in all rooms, but mostly older poop), but I was more than happy to find shelter from the wind and cold that evening.
Next morning I continued to gorge my eyes with breathtaking views around this lake area in all directions.
That day I even witnessed many cycling participation in Silk Road Mountain Race which takes place here every year.
They were going in opposite direction (seemingly towards the border).
In fact, yesterday evening when I entered Kyrgyzstan I met several and we had short chat, they were going to border post trying to buy some food there. I said I don’t think a store exist there as far as I know, but I know they are hungry as they carry little to no luggage.
It turns out there is a small store at there border post where you can buy some food (as I discovered this when I was exiting Kyrgyzstan but more on that later)
First rain for me after a long time (I don’t even remember when I saw rain last time as I came from China)
This short rain did not affect me but there was more of this to come.

A leftovers of that is was a big crash happened here.
Who knows how long this has been sitting here, but its not a nice eyesight in this beautiful nature.
Soon I met another cyclist coming from other direction, he was on short journey around Kyrgyzstan.
He gave me some info on the route ahead confirming the route is rideable without any problems (at least first half of it which was my goal) which was assuring.
Everywhere I looked I was left amazed by nature.
Gravel was mostly smooth, which is exactly what I needed.
Even the gradients were ok, and 95% of the thing were rideable , even with heavier loads.
The evening was approaching and I decided to call it a day.
I have done enough today, crossed whole lake, they started offroad section for the rest of the day.
Found some random grassline higher up from the road (for a comfortable night).
Didnt know if its going to rain overnight or no, so I staked my tent firmly.
Grass is soft so setting a tent here against winds is no problem.
Next day route goes over big mountain pass (no so big going from the side) and descends into small town of Baetov.
Incredible veiws and big mountain on the left as you climb over the pass..
Met many cyclists here on this part of the route and discovered how popular is here this time of the year.
No Silk Road Mountain Race going here (they disappeared somewhere else yesterday which I will only find out much later in my time here in Kyrgyzstan) , just the “regular” cyclist like me on short or long distance touring.
Still using my damaged Schwalbe Marathon rear tire.
I tried to patch a pretty visible hole (which is only protected my tire boot from the inside) with small rubber which I glued in but I knew this will not last at all :(
While climbing towards the pass I saw several shepards overlooking the cattle while sitting on the side of the mountain.
They waved at me telling to join them. I saw they were eating something.
And to my surprise they were actually eating fresh and delicious bread.
Not only I havent eaten bread for more than 2 days now so if I could choose single food item now (while still being away from any towns or civilization for hours at least ), but this bread was so delicious that it put a huge smile to my face (and to my belly!)
It was just what I needed after all this time.
Especially since after last part of China, where bread was actually quite bad (for my linkings), this bread was soft, whit a rich taste.
They even gave me one bread before I continued forwards.
On the top of the pass.
Today was similarly cloudy (with some drizzling rain several times but nothing big) so some views of the big mountain on the left (5000m) were partially obscured, but the surroundings were breathtaking!
If I needed to pick one point where Tian Shan traverse was the most spectacular looking, I would say here!
Huge canyon carved in the past
Descend towards town of Baetov on this side was very long
More and more I started wishing I had a mountain bike with little luggage so I can enjoy this spectacular gravel roads!
Some remains of mudbrick mausoleum
A graveyard in Kyrgyzstan
Mausoleum of Taylak Batyr and Atantai Batyr located on the side of the road
Grocery stores in Kyrgyzstan were really very well equipped, fruits , vegetables, dry fruits, nuts, fresh bread, yogurts… anything I wanted.
After leaving Baetov and short ride on the paved roads, the route turned gravel again and started entering another valley towards the mountains.
I enjoyed such surroundings like nothing else!
Another evening comes close and its time top find a camping spot.
And finding a camping spot in Kyrgyzstan is probably one of the most pleasurable thing on my bikepacking journey.
You can put your tent anywhere you want of course, nature is beautiful all around you, you have your privacy (sometimes people may visit you if they see you only to give you food presents :)
I ended up on random spot, unbelievably calm night so much so that you can hear a very occasional car coming from far in the distance on the mountain gravel roads.
I never heard any wild animals (like wolfs) here in Kyrgyzstan (but obviously they exist)
Oats
Plus cacao
Equals breakfast for me :)
Strangely I even found real and very good cacao powder here is small grocery stores in Kyrgyzstan (something I havent seen from Vietnam on this journey!)
On first sight a beautiful horses but if you look closely you will see their legs are tied together ( so they cant move fast or far?)
It was sad seeing this and for a moment I even wanted to take a knife and cut the cord to let them free, but aside from being stupid and irresponsible, it would be also very dangerous, if the horse kicks suddenly and without warning..
Random yurts located in the mountains. Some were closed while some offered camping opportunities where you could rent a yurt and stay.
Sometimes there would be electricity, and I was told occasionally there can even be wifi present.
I random cat I found on the side of the road here in the mountains in the middle of nowhere,
First I heard cat crying but I couldn’t see where the car was , I stopped and it took a while to spot a small cat in the grass not far from the side of the road.
I quickly realized she must be hungry (as there was nobody around here).
Didn’t know at first what food to leave her (what do cats eat?) but decided to make small slices of bread which she immediately started eating.
River was near by so water was no problem.
Of course this food I left would only last so far, so the real solution was actually to take her with me and leave her when I find some village or people (which I only realized once I left).
Even so , I am not sure how far I would need to travel to find people here.
And then less than a kilometer further there were another yurt and people working around, so civilization was not that far.
Hope this cat survived and found a shelter :)
Some flora here in the mountains
Rose hip (I recognize this :)
I was still riding through this valley climbing steady until I got a surprise.
I looked up and saw dust coming from some vehicles.
Then I realized those are switchbacks and the road now starts to climb.
I don’t usually look elevation profile every day , I just like to ride blindly and enjoy nature without worrying about how much I need to climb.
I didn’t expect such climb is coming today, but this makes journeys more exiting!
This view is from the above after almost half day of climbing .
It was hard but enjoyable every moment (except for the heat)
Not sure how much elevation these switchbacks have exactly (because I still havent looked :) but it could be easily 700 m of gravel I climbed.
Gorgeous nature slightly reminding of Durmitor (because of white rock)
Once the climb was over I have reached the plateau around the Song-Kul lake.
The ride around the lake was long (feeling like the end will never come) and I will admit, a little boring for me.
There was also an option to take two different paths here, one leaving the lake sooner and descending towards next small town, the other going on the other side of the lake and climbing over another pass before descending down.
I decoded to follow first route which was the main route on the map. For the other I did not know the state of the road and I was running low of food so I wanted to reach town as soon as possible.
Yurts located around the lake.
It would be boring for me to stay here.
While its scenic at first, it quickly becomes monotonous.
Mountains are far in the distance , everywhere is flat and even going to lake level is not possible because ground becomes wet, so the only thing thats left if to sit down and not go anywhere (the best I could describe it :)
It took me loong time to finally leave the lake and the night arrived sooner than expected.
But camping is no problem (as we already know) so I just crashed on first place I found.
In the morning another big and enjoyable descend down (I wish I was on empty mountain bike :)
Reaching another small town of Bash-Kuugandy
Children very interesting in foreigners here, sometimes even calling your “tourist” (which does not sound nice)
Not sure if they learned that themselves or the parents are to blame.
Back on the paved road again, which comes very handy to rest from bumpy gravel roads.
Some river crossing involved here
Hike a bike start here although its still rideable most of the way (but this is nothing what comes later) as the path goes more in the gorge and starts climbing up
Next to the top of the pass.
I was pushing so much that the night came eventually :)
Lots of horses, cows on the top
Time to find a spot for the night
A million dollar hotel
Despite me making a wrong turn, nature here was gorgeous so I am still not regretting going this way (although I would never repeat this :)
Next morning another sweet descent back to main road
And another small town on the way before entering valley towards Karakol pass
A long valley towards Karakol pass.
This was longer section (about 150 km without resupply) which first climbs to the pass and then descends on the other side before going back to “civilization”
I say civilization because there are people here in this valley as well living in yurts and working with cattle.
Takes 2 days realistically to cross this section
Kids trained well how to handle horses are handling cattle as well ,not just adults
Here a series of 4000 m peaks standing above the valley, looking very European (dark Granite rock with big glaciers)
First day into the valley I still havent reached Karakol pass (but I was close)
Camped on the side of the valley overlooking the peaks
Was visited by another young and curious shepherd in the morning
A traffic jam in Kyrgyzstan
A sad reality of nature in Kyrgyzstan
Occasionally you can see empty glass bottle (vodka and similar) which people throw in the beautiful nature just laying on the ground
Its fine people want to drink but why do they have to throw bottles around?
Getting close to the Karakol pass
Here seeing these peaks I really got a desire to have winter gear with me (mountain boots, crampons and ice axes)
Top of the pass, not spectacular looking, but still about 3500 m in elevation
Here I decided to leave my bike on the pass and go hike the nearest peak (which look easy and was about 300 m higher than the pass itself) and I wanted to get closer view on the mountains
45 minutes later I reached the top with gorgeous views on the peaks
View towards the valley on the other side (which awaits me)
River on the other side was glacerous (is this a word?) white color
Few more hours of riding bumpy gravel I have gone back on main road towards Bishkek.
But main road arent always what you think in Kyrgyzstan :)
A huge Salmon with onion and lemon
I could eat this every day!
A man who so heart welcomed me to his house and made a Salmon for dinner
A small barbecue on which he cooks fish
His house I left in the morning
Going back from Naryn to China I cycled around Chatyr-Köl Lake once again.
This section was so tremendously beautiful I cannot describe in words!
But also very cold as the last time I was here.
I crashed for the evening next to the road in the only shelter I could find, to protect myself from the cold wind.
As this didnt work so well, later I pitched my tent infront of this (instead of sleeping inside :)
That evening I had Salmon for dinner again, and it suited me so well after a long day of cycling in colder and slightly rainy weather.
I could have such dinner every night! :)
Bought some food with last Kyrgyz money I had and came back to the same house I stayed first night I came into Kyrgyzstan where I decided to spend rest of the weekend just resting, and doing some work on my laptop (until the battery lasts)
Sounds boring but I
actually had good time here and dint mind so much missing the weekend
barrier to cross the border.
Come Monday it was time to cross the border for real this time.
I was also lucky on this border once again since the process was quite relaxed (for cyclist)
2 more days of cycling and I was back to Kashgar.
It was time to rest here for more while I wait for a new wheel (I ordered from Taobao ) to arrive.
Kashgar was a nice city (during the day and when the night falls and everything lights up)
Took some days for package to arrive on this side of China.
I was eager to start moving again and go back to Kyrgyzstan, this to across Irkestham border next to town of Sary Tash,
After going back and forth from China into Kyrgyzstan and back on the same road, I couldn’t wait to go back to a different road on my way towards Irkeshtam.
The nature here was nice too. Here I saw camels (although this does not look like desert any more)
Again these rock built tanks with wooden turret were present here in many numbers.
What is the actual purpose I do not know ( but it cant be to fool another military :)
Road towards Irkeshtam often had cones placed in the middle of the road to stop vehicle drivers (especially trucks) overtaking each other.
While this is good idea for motor vehicles, if you find yourself between the cones in the middle of the road and fence on the side of the road when truck is overtaking you (as often happens), it leaves cyclists in very dangerous position as I have experienced this several times!
What lies ahead is 40 km of truck line waiting to cross into Kyrgyzstan.
I was not aware of this and certainly did not expect this!
On the left is a massive mountain chain with big mountains, but the view is obstructed by these trucks as you ride along.
To be honest, I hated this art first but then at one point, a truckers invited me to lunch as I was riding along.
I spend at least 2 hours sitting with them as they were cooking multiple meals and all the snacks they had lying around :)
They even gave me a lot of food to take with me (bread, fruits...), so much I couldnt carry any more.
They cook lunch on this retractable panel on the side of the truck.
2 different lunches were on offer and I had to make sure not to eat too much because I was till climbing from the border.
First they had pasta with vegetables, they later potatoes with some meat (muu they said when I asked :) and more vegetables.
One person understood some English so we were able to communicate somewhat.
He was explaining me that they eat now, later to will go to sleep. And they do that all the time, thats why some of them get really fat (showing me his friend belly :)
They actually sit in this traffic cue for days until they can enter China.
Big mountains continued to show their presence, while Road only cleared from trucks about 40 km after the border
After some more riding I arrive at Sary Tash ,a small mountain village at this side if Kyrgyzstan
Not much to see here, few grocery stores (which is important to stack up when going to Pamir)
And guesthouses to spend the night (if you don’t want to sleep outside)
But prices here got quite high for guesthouses,
Even the food in store, especially bread got more expensive (compared to the rest of Kyrgyzstan)
After spending the night in Sary Tash, it was time to go towards Tajikistsan.
It was cold today and some light rain present in the morning.
I had to use most of my winter clothes, including winter gloves which I have been carrying in my bags all along.
Road deteriorates even more going towards Tajikistan
And the weather turns bad.
It is still raining slightly but soon as I climb higher, it turns in dry snow (which we all like of course :)
It was quite of a climb to reach the border pass locatred at this elevation.
Luckily I had tailwind as I was climbing towards the border, which also carried snow into my back (instead into my face)
My personal record today with a bicycle (4282 m)






































































































































No comments:
Post a Comment